MSTFD6005
Drape structured over-garments


Application

This unit of competency covers the skills and knowledge required to perform structured draping for tailored over-garments, such as jackets and overcoats.

The unit of competency applies to work which requires special considerations to fit balance and inter-construction requirements of the jacket as an over-garment. Work includes partial flat pattern construction or blocks to complement the drape, such as with the development of sleeves and collars.

Draping may be for a one-off garment that goes from drape to garment, or a prototype that goes from drape to flat pattern for small volume production. Draping is performed on a body form, such as a mannequin or model.

Work is supervised and may be conducted in small to large scale enterprises and may involve individual and team activities.

No licensing, legislative or certification requirements apply to this unit at the time of publication.


Elements and Performance Criteria

Elements describe the essential outcomes.

Performance criteria describe the performance needed to demonstrate achievement of the element.

1

Determine job requirements

1.1

Follow standard operating procedures (SOPs)

1.2

Comply with work health and safety (WHS) requirements at all times

1.3

Use appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) in accordance with SOPs

1.4

Identify job requirements from specifications, drawings, job sheets or work instructions

2

Prepare drape structured over-garments

2.1

Select and prepare draping tools and equipment and prepare work area

2.2

Select body form that is one size larger than actual size and prepare by applying additional padding required of the design (e.g. shoulder pads)

2.3

Mark body reference points with tape on body form

2.4

Plot design lines from working drawings onto body form, using narrow tape

2.5

Develop working drawings and check measurements

3

Plan drape

3.1

Prepare fabric for draping

3.2

Identify requirements for adding ease and for manipulating dart excess

3.3

Plan seam position and develop drape plan

4

Perform structured draping operations

4.1

Pin fabric on body, relating reference points and fabric grains

4.2

Perform sequential structured draping operations

4.3

Remove drape from model

4.4

Consult with appropriate personnel, as required, and ensure quality work practices

4.5

Finalise drape and direct to next production process

Evidence of Performance

Evidence required to demonstrate competence in this unit must be relevant to and satisfy the requirements of the elements and performance criteria, and include:

reading and following work instructions, standard operating procedures (SOPs) and safe work practices

applying relevant standards

plotting design lines from working drawings onto body form, using narrow tape, developing working drawings and checking measurements

preparing fabric for draping, identifying requirements for adding ease and for manipulating dart excess

planning seam position and developing drape plan

pinning fabric on body, relating reference points and fabric grains and performing sequential structured draping operations for a one-off garment that goes from drape to garment, and a prototype that goes from drape to flat pattern for small volume production

removing drape from model, consulting with appropriate personnel as required and ensuring quality work practices

finalising drape and directing to next production process.


Evidence of Knowledge

Evidence must be provided that demonstrates knowledge of:

safe work practices and procedures and use of personal protective equipment (PPE)

Australian Standards for patterns and garment construction

principles and concepts of patternmaking

customer and workplace requirements

cost efficiency in relation to patternmaking

range of typical garment fabrics, including weight and other characteristics

partial flat pattern construction or blocks to complement the drape, such as with the development of sleeves and collars

design schematics:

the design lines as depicted in the fashion illustration

design lines transferred onto the dress form using narrow tape

marker making procedures

cutting and garment construction

draping tools and equipment:

body form

narrow tape

shoulder pads

tape measure

pen/pencil

scissors

square rule

marker pens

hole punch

pins

fashion triangle

French curve

pattern notcher

weights

quality practices

workplace procedures

recording and reporting practices.


Assessment Conditions

Assessors must:

satisfy the assessor competency requirements that are in place at the time of the assessment, as set by the VET regulator

have vocational competency in structured draping, at least to the level being assessed, with relevant industry knowledge and experience.

Assessment should occur in operational workplace situations. Where this is not possible, or where personal safety or environmental damage are limiting factors, assessment must occur in a sufficiently rigorous simulated environment reflecting realistic operational workplace conditions. This must cover all aspects of workplace performance, including environment, task skills, task management skills, contingency management skills and job role environment skills.

Assessment processes and techniques must be appropriate to the language, literacy and numeracy requirements of the work being performed and the needs of the candidate.

Conditions for assessment must include access to all tools, equipment, materials and documentation required, including relevant workplace procedures, product and manufacturing specifications associated with this unit.


Foundation Skills

This section describes those required skills (language, literacy and numeracy) that are essential to performance.

Foundation skills essential to performance are explicit in the performance criteria of this unit of competency.


Range Statement

This field allows for different work environments and conditions that may affect performance. Essential operating conditions that may be present (depending on the work situation, needs of the candidate, accessibility of the item, and local industry and regional contexts) are included.

Workplace procedures include one or more of the following:

requirements prescribed by legislation, awards, agreements and conditions of employment

SOPs

work instructions

PPE

oral, written and visual communication

quality practices, including responsibility for maintenance of own work quality and contribution to quality improvement of team or section output

housekeeping

tasks related to environmental protection, waste disposal, pollution control and recycling

WHS requirements

Australian Standards include:

the relevant industry or Australian Standards that are current at the time this unit is being undertaken

Structured over-garments include one or more of the following:

collar

lining

creative and intricate styling

jackets/overcoats with cut-on collars

jackets/overcoats with set-in sleeves

jackets/overcoats with volume-draped panels

jackets/overcoats with cut-on sleeves, such as raglans and kimonos

Fabric includes one or more of the following:

fabric of the final garment

a fabric that has the same handle or drape

Prepare fabric for draping includes the following:

estimating dimensions of fabric pieces required for drape according to chosen design

identifying warp, weft and bias grain of fabric

identifying and assessing fabric handling qualities

Fabric handling qualities include the following:

fall

stretch

stability

drape

Drape plan includes one or more of the following:

adding fullness (pleats, tucks and gathers)

multiple darts/division of darts

symmetric and/or asymmetric design features

cowls, twists and knots

Structured draping operations include:

moulding and manipulating fabric on body form according to the design, fit and design schematic

adding ease to allow for movement

incorporating fullness or volume, if required

smoothing and manipulating fabric over contours of over-garments and along sketch design lines

forming and pinning darts and seams to create pattern or construct garment

draping collars or built-up necklines according to the design

partially flat-constructing or designing cut-on or set-in sleeves then placing on the drape

pinning reference points

incorporating sleeve design into drape

preparing front, back and sleeve drapes for truing

performing truing


Sectors

Not applicable


Competency Field

Fashion design and technology